Thanks for that Apart from a box room and a wee bathroom adding some inches to the exterior walls shouldn't be a problem in most rooms, though as you say it will be a lot of work: there will be a fair bit of stuff like cornices, architraves & fire surrounds to replace/move. Our page top photo shows hand-split wooden lath backing for a plaster interior wall. If rooms are big enough you don,t even need to rip out old plaster +lathes-just build a modern house inside it inside it ?Īpply vapour barrier to the frames before you lift them up into place and you got full damp proofing at same time and a gap for the old walls to breath into the roof spaceĪ house that old will be built with a cold roof and lots of drafts in the loft area -so you kill all problems at same timeĪlso will be a job you can do while still living in it ,a bit at a time if you wishįilling the gap with anything will stop the air flow to the roof you must have with this type of old house -you will make more damp problems This article discusses the identification and history of older interior building surface materials such plaster and lath, Beaverboard, and Drywall - materials that were used to form the (usually) non-structural surface of building interior ceilings and walls. Maybe a bigger job then you wanted but is the right way to go long term and also a chance to replace electrics etc at same time and have house with modern insulation stds When it comes to anchoring into lath and plaster walls, there are a few different methods you can useeach has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it is important to weigh each option depending on your project. Maybe time to think about getting rid of the lathe and plaster and build stud walls -providing rooms are not very small The Different Methods for Anchoring Into Lath and Plaster Walls. If your roof is not vented properly (eg, bad insulation job that has blocked all the vents, spray foam under the tiles etc) you may have damp problems in the roof but that's a whole other issue that a lime plaster ceiling sadly won't solve! But while the ceiling is down is a good time to check the roof is properly vented (there are various ways rhis is done depending on whether there isa membrane or boards under the tiles etc - its not always immediately obvious but it's worth checking. Lath and plaster walls have a slightly better insulating R-value than do drywall wall systems. hanging dried gypsum plaster) most commonly used today. You’ll use this same technique to smooth on the plaster a little at a time. At the top of your stroke, slide the trowel over 2-3 inches (5-8cm), then reverse the motion and bring it down again. But before you decide to go buy a stack of drywall, lets take a little closer look at a few of the. Crouch down and push the plaster up the wall in a gentle arc, standing as you go to reach the higher parts. Using 1/4-inch sheets, you can cover old imperfections without adding too much additional finish work. Soundproof drywall, though, rivals lath and plaster walls in terms of soundproofing. Lath and plaster walls for interiors date back to the 1700s and were widely used until the early-middle of the twentieth century, when their dominance was supplanted by the drywall method (i.e. One of the fastest ways to cover old, damaged, or cracked plaster walls is to hang drywall over them. Lath and plaster walls were widely used for interiors from the 1700s until the mid-1900s, when they were replaced by the drywall method. And as the roof is usually colder than your living space (especially if the ceiling is insulated), it won't really be able to dry out into the house anyway. Lath and plaster walls provide a room with better soundproofing, as opposed to drywall walls of an ordinary thickness (1/2-inch). Roof coverings like slates and tiles and the timbers inside can also get damp sometimes, but we're talking about less moisture and more to the point, a roof should be an open structure with air movement between slates, via vents in the soffit etc, which will dry it. Agree with - old walls often need breathable plaster/paint because they are a bit porous (masonry and/or mortar) and the moisture needs to escape both ways - back to the outdoors, and in to the house (to be removed by ventilation).
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